Now that I look back on it, Flanders Red is the only beer that I've re-brewed. I guess that says a lot about me as a homebrewer. This batch will be my 4th generation (and still using the same Roeselare blend). I've learned a good bit about this style and sour beers since I've started. I'll try my best to give commentary on my changes over time.
Historically, here have been my changes:
2010 Flanders Red to 2011 Flanders Red
Hops:1 oz Golding, 5.5%, pellet, 90 min 15.3 IBU
Yeast:4th pitch of Wyeast Rosealare
100 ml White Labs 530 Abbey Ale from Belgian Blond
Historically, here have been my changes:
2010 Flanders Red to 2011 Flanders Red
- 30% Pilsner Malt swapped with 25% Maris Otter
- 3% Wheat Malt swapped with 13% Flaked Corn
- San Diego (hard) tap water to Soft Water Profile
- WLP001 + Roeselare yeast (No Starter) to Roeselare yeast cake and US-05 after 3 days
- 2 oz of French Oak Medium Toast to 1 oz of French Oak Medium Toast
- 25% Maris Otter scrapped in favor of more Munich and Vienna
- 13% Flaked Corn swapped for 16% Flaked Wheat
- All Specialty Malts increased 2 oz
- Mash Temp from 154 to 158
- Roeselare yeast cake and US-05 after 3 days changed to Roeselare yeast cake/WLP530
2012 Flanders Red to 2013 Flanders Red
- More Munich Malt (44% to 51%), Less Vienna (28% - 20%)
- All Specialty Malts increased 1%
- Switching from 1 oz oak cubes to 1.5 oz oak cubes added at 6 months
As you can see, I'm narrowing in on my recipe. The only changes were to help the malt bill stand out more. I've found on my system that my actual color is always lower than calculated, so my finished product should still be very much in style. I'm very happy with my fermentation plan of using WLP530 being pitched at the same time as my ongoing Roeselare yeast cake. I like the high mash temp, as it keeps plenty of sugar after the WLP530 yeast does it work and it leaves enough residual sweetness after a year to balance the sourness. (I like most of my sour beers pretty dry, but the Flanders styles (Red and Brown) work very well with some sweetness.)
I also brewed a couple extra gallons this year so I could try some ECY20 that Ed at Ales of the Riverwards sent me.
I also brewed a couple extra gallons this year so I could try some ECY20 that Ed at Ales of the Riverwards sent me.
Recipe: 2013 Flander's Red
Batch Size 8.0 gal O.G.-1.062 F.G.-TBD IBU-15 SRM-18.5 ABV-TBD
Grain Bill (77% Efficiency):
9 lb Munich Malt 10L (51%)
3.5 lb Vienna Malt (20%)
2.5 lb Flaked Wheat (14%)
14 oz Aromatic Malt (5%)
14 oz Caramunich I (5%)
14 oz Special B (5%)
1.5 oz of Hungarian Oak cubes @ 6 months
9 lb Munich Malt 10L (51%)
3.5 lb Vienna Malt (20%)
2.5 lb Flaked Wheat (14%)
14 oz Aromatic Malt (5%)
14 oz Caramunich I (5%)
14 oz Special B (5%)
1.5 oz of Hungarian Oak cubes @ 6 months
Hops:1 oz Golding, 5.5%, pellet, 90 min 15.3 IBU
Yeast:4th pitch of Wyeast Rosealare
100 ml White Labs 530 Abbey Ale from Belgian Blond
Brew Day:Brewed: 8/4/13
Mash Volume: 5 gal
Sacc Rest. Temp/Time: 158F @ 60min
Sparge Volume: 6.25 gal
Sparge Temp/Time: 170F
Sacc Rest. Temp/Time: 158F @ 60min
Sparge Volume: 6.25 gal
Sparge Temp/Time: 170F
Boil Details:
Boil Volume: 9 gal
Boil Time: 90min
Boil Volume: 9 gal
Boil Time: 90min
Ferment Details:
O.G.: 1.062
Ferment Temp: 70-75 Water bath in garage
Length: 10 days and then ambient in garage
Even with the changes I've made over the years, I have still concluded to make a great Flanders Red, you really should do some blending. The last batches have been great on their own, but I can always find an area in the beer that I would like to improve (lactic acid level, oak level, Brett level, acetic acid level, color, malt complexity...)
O.G.: 1.062
Ferment Temp: 70-75 Water bath in garage
Length: 10 days and then ambient in garage